By Garland Pollard
NEW YORK – We are so over Ben and Jerry’s, and are tired of hippie wanna-bes with pierced crap in their noses and lips serving us overpriced ice cream, all the while standing next to guilt-inducing tipjars. We are so tired of them that we don’t even care if it’s an “and” or an ampersand.
We say this. If you have to pay $5 bucks for a cone, you might as well get something worth five bucks. That something would be Louis Sherry, though we have to admit, we’d only pay a buck for the tasty honey roll cone at right.
You know Louis Sherry. That elite little ice cream and candy brand. Yes, we do like Sealtest or High’s Ice Cream. And Carvel’s cake is great.
But somehow, we very and most fondly remember Louis Sherry.
Vermont born Louis Sherry (1855-1926) was an important restaurateur and caterer to the Gilded Age. Beginning at the Brunswick Hotel at 26th St & Fifth Avenues, then the Elberon Hotel in Elberon, N.J, he eventually opened a restaurant at 38th Street and 6th Avenue. His obituary from the Woodlawn Cemetery website goes this way:
When the ‘Mikado’ opened in New York, Sherry cornered the market in Japanese parasols and ornaments used in cake decoration. He began to receive orders from the carriage trade. He said of this, ‘Nothing goes further with dainty people than dainty decorations.’
The restaurant closed during the Depression. Sherry apparently had some problem with “Bolsheviks” and couldn’t stomach the commies. Atlas Shrugged! You bet.
According to a 1950 Time magazine article, the brand was partly owned by Mrs. Lucius M. Boomer, who was the widow of the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel’s longtime board chairman. Boomer founded the confectionery company with the late Louis Sherry after Sherry’s fashionable Fifth Avenue restaurant closed down. According to USPTO searches, the name was owned by Borden and Beatrice Foods.
Sherry and Boomer together developed The Sherry-Netherland (781 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York 10022-1046, 212-355-2800, www.sherrynetherland.com) where residents could eat from the Sherry kitchen. Thankfully, it’s still around, keeping the Sherry legacy alive.